Well grounded

I was just "chatting" with my friend about the problem of being exposed to authentic spices.  The other stuff, no matter how fresh or pricey, just doesn't measure up.  It's not necessarily because we're alleged foodies, but moreso because there truly is a difference.

The French refer to it as terroir - how the local environment impacts food, particularly why the distinctiveness of wine (also coffee and tea) varies from region to region based on soil, climate, and other physical features.  This makes a lot of sense in terms of staple foods - who eats rice, wheat, or soy; and the diversity of meal options.  Not to mention how the available fuel sources in a locale contribute to cooking methods.  Terroir also explains the distinction between sources of vanilla and cocoa beans, as well as place-based items such as basmati rice, vidalia onions, tequila, and cognac. 

While I could potentially create a spice blend that resembles berbere, or I could even attempt to grow the plants from cuttings; it would not be the same as the stuff that Abay carries in her suitcase because the geographic coordinates are off.   The same goes for the other blends that I have grown fond of. 

My friend mentioned that her husband made an Asian chicken dish (black bean and garlic sauce with a five spice powder)...she said it was delicious but knows that it would have been better with something "nana" brought back from Hunan or somewhere like that.  I think she's absolutely right, nothing can top mom's powder.

Waste not

One of the biggest issues with cooking Eritrean food is getting consistent injera - the right texture and a nice balance of fermentation.  The other issue is what to do with the leftover bread.  Maybe it'll last a day at room temperature but then it gets very tangy...if you refrigerate it, the texture is all wrong, so I generally try to make enough zigni to last two days or make a new dish the next day. 

As usual my daughter was asking for timtimo...I actually could've gone for qulwah but i didn't have any beef.  I made the timtimo in the crockpot on Sunday with some frozen green beans on the side.  Yesterday I was in the mood for mac and cheese so I made it (as the main dish) with a little pan seared halibut and the leftover green beans on the side.  We haven't had mac and cheese in awhile so everyone was pleasantly surprised.  The only problem was that we had a couple of pieces of injera still lurking around so I stuck in the the refrigerator.

When I made the timtimo I realized that my berbere supply is just about depleted...somehow Abay is almost out of berbere herself, so my friend offered me some berbere paste.  We're not sure how Abay's friend made it but it looks like it's berbere that's been cooked with oil, water, and possibly onions and garlic.  Beggars can't be choosers so I gladly accepted some. 

This morning I decided to take a stab at injera fit-fit using the paste.  I sauteed onions in olive oil and butter (my version of clarified butter...tesmi is more authentic but I certainly don't have that), mixed in the paste then mixed in the torn injera.  It was so good that I might make more for lunch. 

Dessert detour

A few weeks ago I went to Buddakhan with a few friends.  Everything we had was tasty albeit a little salty...very interesting flavor combinations...it put me in mind of an upscale PF Changs with a fusion twist.  (Last Sunday we took the kids to Beijing Homestyle and were delighted by more authentic offerings).  We looked over the dessert menu and considering the price point, were not impressed so I suggested that we go elsewhere (there's a COSI a few doors down). 

Now, one of these friends complained about COSI and asked what kind of city doesn't have a dessert cafe.  I explained that there were several dessert bars in the heart of center city, but there were none that I could think of in the Independence Mall area (I totally forgot about Franklin Fountain).  As we drove home, I pointed out several  cafes along Walnut Street.  She had no comment. 

Last night I went to Chima with another group of friends.  While Chima is a economical alternative to Fogo de Chao, especially during Restaurant Week or with a coupon; it teeters on casual dining.  We looked at the dessert menu and were faced with the same challenge, so I suggested that we drive to Naked Chocolate. 

The place was packed but we were able to snag tables and chairs and went overboard with mousse and drinks.  The European hot chocolate was right up my alley. 

Turkey and beans

When my friend mentioned she was making chili the other day, I was shocked...every now and then she surprises me. Last year an acquaintance posted on FB that she wanted to make chili but was out of chili seasoning.  I reminded her that she was married to a Moroccan and likely had the spices necessary to make her own...those seasoning packets have rendered us helpless.

Well, I decided to make chili - that was before my rude awakening.  First I had only one can of kidney beans, so I had to go with favas.  Then I couldn't locate the chili powder (my husband later admitted that he had mistaken it for cayenne pepper and used it).  I started mixing seasonings - a little TJs, ginger, cumin - I avoided using cayenne pepper because it's called chili not cayenne. 

In an act of desperation, I borrowed some chili powder from my neighbor.  It was a cheap brand so I went a little heavy - it had absolutely no impact on the color or taste.  So I added more.  The label said chili powder but the ingredients said salt, silicon dioxide, chili powder, garlic, and who knows what else.  Of course at that moment the chili had a chemical aftertaste.  Yes, it was all in my mind. 

That's when I added nutmeg, saffron, and cayenne - and was quite satisfied with the results. 

Breaking bread

My daughter recently had to write a poem about where her ancestors are from...of course we don't know.  The only thing we know from mitochondrial DNA is that we come from east Africa, but so does all of humankind.  Interestingly enough, that is the culture for which we have the strongest affinity...probably because of Abay (my friend's mom).

Abay offered to make fit-fit for breakfast months ago...scheduling constraints prevented it from happening until last Tuesday.  I walked in as she was sitting mixing by hand what looked to be bread and bebere.  She made ours with butter and hers with olive oil (she frequently abstains from animal products for religious observance).  It was tasty and filling, and surprisingly I didn't have that sluggish feeling I normally do after a carb heavy meal - probably because it was made with whole-wheat flour.

I asked her to show me how to make this past Monday.  Like roti, it's deceptively simple - flour, water, and salt kneaded into a dough and pan fried - but there's a technique involved that requires patience, something I'm lacking.  First you have to make the kitcha (pan fried bread).  Abay kneads the ingredients by hand and pressed into a nonstick pan, cooked on one side, then flipped it by hand...let it cool and then we broke it into little pieces. 

My friend has been out of butter for over a week but it worked out that she had Earth Balance, it was a nice substitution, flavorful and dairy free.  Abay hand mixed it into the bread with bebere.  We ate it without utensils with Greek yogurt on the side.  It was delicious. 

Fresh bread is a staple food for so many - the aroma and taste can not be matched.  I think the best bread I've had was from a street vendor we stumbled upon in Mecca.  The second runner up would be the large thick Uzbeki bread.  Then there's the thin Omani bread we dipped in tea.  And of course, everyone loves Cosi's flatbread.  Seven years ago, we would get pumpernickel and challah loaves from a local baking operation...they're long gone.  Now that I think of it, I like bread...what I don't like is the packaged bread loaded with ingredients that keep it ridiculously soft and "fresh" for weeks.   

Imagine how pleasant life would be waking up to your daily bread - freshly made by mom...or stopping by a friend's house and being served fresh flat bread and tea.  In lieu of that, we have factory bakeries and hustle and bustle.

Mackerel meal

I have always heard Caribbean folk talking about mackerel...my grandmom used to eat mackerel out of the can on crackers so I never had the desire to eat it as a meal until recently.  Salted mackerel was hanging next to the bacalao...it was in a brine rather than a dry crusty covering...and it was only $3.99. 

I made the mackerel last night and it was quite a hit with the family...I had no idea how to prepare it so I sauteed onions, garlic, scallions, thyme, simmered in coconut milk & stock, added the mackerel and tomatoes, simmered and served with cabbage, corn bread, and pressure cooked yams.  The mackerel essence was so flavorful that I quickly cooked two potatoes to absorb some of the juice.